'Thoughts At Large' Newspaper Column Nov. 10, 2005

'MENUDO LOCO'

c. 2005 Rod Ice All Rights Reserved
From The Geauga County Maple Leaf Newspaper, Chardon, Ohio

"Happiness is a bowl of warm Menudo." - Fred G. Sanford, on ‘Sanford & Son.’

Food on a practical level is nourishment for the body. But taken as a work of artistry, it is a gift to our human constitution, and the soul. Preparing meals with the flair of a household chef can be rewarding. By creating such culinary traditions, we offer a bit of ourselves to future generations. Family recipes may be passed across the years with love. Each is a thumbnail portrait of the cook who designed, and shared, the dish. In addition, food can be satisfying intellectually. Assembling the elements of a foreign edible can evoke a sense of wonder, and revelation. The adventurous cook may eventually be moved to exclaim: "Do people really eat this stuff?"
When I was a teenager, this kind of discovery through skillet experimentation was common. While my Mother displayed a wonderful ability to produce tasty meals from nearly anything available, Dad chose an alternate path. Though lacking in the traditional skills of a household chef, he was unafraid to test ideas on the stovetop. Always a seeker of unusual dining fare, he inspired the rest of us to remain open-minded toward meal alternatives. In particular, his habits were pre-disposed toward the production of folksy, rural creations. He introduced us to redeye gravy with dry, boarding house biscuits. Also present were fried green tomatoes, skillet cornbread, and country ham. Yet our journey went beyond the simple pleasures of a laborer’s supper. Papa tried to incorporate widely diverse flavors as an addition to the steadfast sustenance of Mom’s expert cooking. This expansive view of world habits made us explorers at heart. In the library, or in the kitchen, we yearned to visit new horizons.
Most memorable was Dad’s attempt at making a colorful, traditional soup called Menudo. (This Mexican concoction is incredibly diverse in character, like jazz music or post-modern art.) From a magazine recipe, he assembled the needed ingredients carefully. Included were pig’s feet, whole coriander and lemon wedges. When cooking, the pot seemed ready to explode with potency! The yield of his attempt was a dish that brought respect and understanding of other cultures, while filling our bellies.
Mom considered the raucous food with tolerance. But her disbelief could not be concealed. This curious mixture did NOT look like anything that had appeared in the Ice Household, before! My brother and sister had no interest in trying a bowl for themselves.
Only Dad and I enjoyed the soup. It was a moment that defined our own culinary dispositions.
Many years later, memories of that meal continued to echo. Canned replications from the GOYA Company did little to satisfy my craving. I hungered for a steaming pot of the stuff, in all its rebellious glory! Yet the original recipe was nowhere to be found. A search on the Internet revealed many different versions, all of which incorporated the most basic element – honeycomb tripe.
Asking for this product made my local butcher smile with puzzlement. He seemed dumbfounded by my desire for the cattle by-product. "We get requests for that once in a while," he said with good humor. "So, how do you use it, anyway?"
I pointed a finger in the air. "I need the tripe for a Latino soup made with peppers and beans and… all kinds of things!"
The Butcher grinned. I could tell that he half-wondered if I was joking. "Sure… that sounds interesting. A taste of Old Mexico…Now all you need is a Corona Beer with lime…"
My description continued. "Some call it ‘Hangover Soup’ because it is reputed to be a traditional cure for drinking too much," I said. "Haven’t tested that myself, though. It just doesn’t seem likely."
He nodded. "Well, they’ve got different ways, south of the border!"
I agreed. Already, thoughts of stirring the pot of Menudo to life had taken hold. I drifted into a daydream of fresh meat, hand-selected vegetables, imported spices, all bubbling in an open kettle…
Now, my task was clear. I had to decide what form the 21st-Century concoction would take. Somehow, I wanted to strike a more perfect balance between authenticity and taste appeal. Success came from blending ideas found in cyberspace with my own preferences. Born was a spicy stew that proved to be filling, and delectable:
UNCLE ROD’S CROCK-POT MENUDO
1 ½ Lb. Beef Tripe
¾ Lb. Thin-Cut Pork Chops
8 oz. Hot Banana Pepper Rings (half of 16 oz. jar, with juice)
15 oz. Tomato Sauce
15 oz. Beef Broth
15 oz. Sliced Potatoes
15 oz. White Hominy
15 oz. Garbanzos (Chick Peas)
7 oz. Sliced Green Chiles
1 Large Spanish Onion
15 oz. Pinto Beans
2 Tsp. Minced Garlic
15 oz. Diced Tomatoes
2 Tsp. Culantro Molido (Ground Coriander)
2 Tsp. Comino Molido (Ground Cumin)
1 Tbsp. Lime Juice
1 Tbsp. Lemon Juice
2 Tsp. Hot Sauce
1 Tsp. Black Peppercorns (crushed)
2 Tsp. Chili powder
Directions: Slice beef tripe and pork into small squares or strips. Cover with water in crock-pot and cook 6-8 hours on low setting. Pour off water when done (this will remove the strong aroma of the tripe.) If you are gifted with a hearty constitution, just cook the tripe, pork, and a few pepper rings with the beef broth and water, for a pure taste! (I used this method.) THEN, add the remaining ingredients. For the cumin, coriander, and juices, use your own judgement. I eventually added liberal amounts of these as the cooking progressed. (The cumin and coriander help give menudo its unique flavor.) Then, cook one more hour, on high. This mixture of tasty ingredients will develop into a potent dish. Serve with warm tortillas or corn chips. The result should be Muy Bueno!
I enjoyed the recreated Menudo both as a rewarding meal, and a trip back to yonder days. It demonstrated the durability of household traditions. Also proved was the ability of universal elements to translate well, in any setting. The language of art, music, or cooking, is universal. Anyone, even a midwestern soul from Ohio, can appreciate a taste of distant lands.

Questions or comments about Thoughts At Large may be sent to: glacio61@alltel.net